I just spent 6 full days over Thanksgiving Week in Istanbul, Turkey. I found this bustling city to be full of history, color, art, friendly people and was  overall very exotic.  It is easy to manipulate and get around that I found that I didn’t need to have a guide. Many people speak English and the signs unlike in Japan were easy to read and understand. I took the tram many times which is an easy way to get from Sultanahmet to other areas of the city.  I loved my hotel The Empress Zoe right around the corner from the Four Seasons Hotel. It  was am amazing place to stay with wonderful rooms, roof top terrances and a lovely garden, breakfast included and friendly staff

 

Day One

 

After a Turkish coffee, head out today to explore Sultanahmet.  By the way just around the corner form the Four Seasons near the Haghia Spohia or Aya Sofya is a bank of ATMs which are the best in this area of town.   Check out the Haghia Sophia which is among the world’s greatest architectural achievements and is more than 1,400 years old. In the rear are a series of four mausoleums which you can visit through  a separate entrance. Loved the splendid Byzantine mosaics.  Most of these are found in the gallery upstairs which is accessed by ramps from the lower level. Don’t miss this.

 

Across the street near the corner  on Yerebatan Cadessi is the Amazing Basilica Cistern.  This is a vast underground water cistern, with the  roof held up by large Corinthian and Doric columns which are beautifully lit.  Make sure you walk to the end to see the two large stone Medusa head bases supporting two columns. 

 

For lunch enjoy a traditional Turkish meal at the House of Medusa ( how appropriate since you just saw the Medusa heads in the Cistern).  This restaurant is on Yerebatan Street  at no. 19 just up from the Cistern.  Found in an old mansion, it has a nice outdoor terrace and garden and attractive inside dining rooms.

 

After lunch explore the famous Blue Mosque.  Enjoy the wonderful courtyard, Ixnik tiles and beautiful inside domes.  Make sure you check out the men washing their feet in special taps outside the mosque.  Women I believe need to cover their heads so pack appropriately. You may have to wait a while until prayers are over for admittance.

 

Just outside the mosque is a Mosaic Museum, the Istanbul Crafts Center which never seemed to be open and a small crafts bazaar called the Arasta Bazaar which has many small shops and which serves tea, coffee and snacks.

 

For dinner I recommend Rami Restaurant at Utangac Sokak No. 6.  (0212) 517 6593.  A block or so  from the Four Seasons, it is located right across from the Arasta Bazaar. It is a beautifully decorated Ottoman style restaurant in an old house with  amazing views of the Blue Mosque.  Make sure you request a table by the window.  I loved item #24 on the menu , the elbasan tara, an ottoman style lamp dish with amazing sauce. I also enjoyed drinking Turkish red wines at every dinner!  Check them out.

 

 

 

Day Two

 

Visiting the Topkapi Palace is a must (just realize that it is closed on Tuesday).  It is a series of pavilions contained by four enormous courtyards.  Entry is 20 lire, but make sure you pay the extra 15 lire admission to the Harem which is a beautiful labyrinth of exquisite rooms where the sultan’s wives and concubines lived.  The tile work is amazing.  Check out the rooms in the back including the Circumcision Pavilion (ouch!) and the Badhdad Pavilion.  There are also several exhibitions of artifacts belonging to Mohhamed including Moses’ staff, the treasury with many precious objects, and beautiful rooms of jewels and costumes. 

 

Having lunch at the Konyali restaurant (located in far right corner as you enter) is a must. It is on the palace grounds and has wonderful views of the Bosphorus.  I bypassed the cafeteria line and instead enjoyed the table service and the better menu. Loved the combination plate of  cold Turkish mezes as a meal. 

 

Following the tour of the palace you can visit the Archaeological museum which is basically next door which has one of the world’s richest collections of classical artifacts. My favorite was the Cinili Pavilion which houses a rich collection of ceramics.  The building itself contains beautiful tile work.

 

Make sure you see the row of  old Ottoman houses just outside the west palace gate.

 

For dinner that night I highly recommend Balikci Sabahattin. This is a highly recommended fish restaurant  located in a refurbished Ottoman townhouse.  The address is Seyit Hasan Kuyu Sok, Cankurtaranmah at 0212 458 1824,  It is about a 3 block walk from the Four Seasons.

 

After dinner explore the rug stores and ceramics shops surrounding the Four Seasons hotel.  Gallery Ugur  on Utangac Sokak No 15 had nice ceramics and leather goods. It is out the door from the Four Season and straight down the street on the right.  I bought a rug, just south of the Four  Seasons at Artemis Rug Store, at Akbiyik C. Adliye Sk. No 11/14 phone 212 517 8112.  Ask for Murat Bor the owner.  You go out the door of the Four Seasons turn left, go to the corner and turn left, right at the next corner and the entrance is two doors down on the right.

 

Day Three

 

Walk to the Grand Bazaar from the hotel and plan to spend a wonderful day exploring the thousands of stores. It is a covered bazaar with areas divided into several areas, Antiques and carpets, leather and denim, gold and silver, fabrics and textiles, souvenirs and household good and workshops.  I had lunch in the bazaar at Havuzlu Lokantasi which had decent food  served quickly. 

 

Walk to the Suleymaniye Mosque which is Istanbul’s most important mosque.  It should be seen (1000 Places To See Before you Die) however it is under renovation and only a small portion is open for viewing.  Stop for tea in a café outside the mosque.

 

After a long day of shopping end the day at the Cagaloglu Hamam or 300 year old Turkish Bath. It is listed in the 1000 Places to See Before You Die.  I would do the entire five  step service. It is fun and I recommend  trying. The address is on Yerebatan Caddesi.

For dinner I enjoyed Albura Kathsima a nice restaurant two blocks from the Four Seasons.  It is on Akbiyik Cadessi where there are many fun small restaurants. Check out the 1600 year old palace in the back after dinner.

 

 

Day Four

 

Take the tram to Eminonu.  Visit the large New Mosque near the tram stop and then walk a short distance to see the beautifully decorated Rustem Pasa Mosque.  Walk the small side streets to the Spice Bazaar. This L-Shaped market is not as large as the Grand Bazaar and much more manageable.  I loved buying spices and my new favorite olive oil soap.  Having lunch at the second floor restaurant, Pandeli is a must.  At the water side entrance to the Bazaar take the stairs to left. (right side as you exit).  The restaurant is beautifully decorated with blue tiles and has great food. Try to get a window table to see the water.

 

After lunch take a cab to the Kariye Museum (Chora Church) .  Also in the 1000 Places to See Before you Die Book, this is a little-known mosque-turned museum has dazzling 14^th century mosaics and frescoes depicting biblical scenes as well as some of the most important and extensive Byzantine paintings in the world.  There are some lovely cafes at the exit where you can have a cup of tea and a baklava to end the day. The address is Kariye Camii Sokak, Edimekapi 90 212 631 9241.  Closed on Wednesday.s  It is out near the western wall.

 

Try Hamdi restaurant for authentic Turkish cuisine , I did not try, but is was recommended and is not too far from the Spice Bazaar.

 

Day Five

 

Take a tram so Kabatas and then a cab to see the Dolmabahce Palace. I did not see it but it has been recommended. Then stop by the Ciragan Palace, now the Ciragan Palace Kempinski.  Heard their Sunday Brunch is great. I did not eat there but enjoyed  seeing the hotel and then walking to Ortakoy which is an area with a great village feel at the foot of the Bosphorus bridge. I enjoyed a fun lunch at the attractive House Café where they have both indoor and outdoor dining.  They have burgers if you are tired of kebabs and lamb.   Then visited the impressive mosque right on the water.  It is one of the prettiest mosques I saw.  Don’t miss this.  To the left of the mosque is a boat pier from where  I took a one hour Bosphorus cruise from the first bridge to the second bridge. This was a perfect trip since I was able to see palaces and beautiful homes along the way without taking the full day trip to the Black Sea.   Stop for coffee or tea at one of the many cafes following the cruise.

 

Tonight I suggest something contemporary. Try the sleek,  Changa which is a wonderful contemporary restaurant in the Taksim area just off the square.  It is on Siraselviler Caddesi No. 47 , phone 212-249-1348. They have a tasting menu and also  offer wonderful dishes off the menu. The eggplant was amazing. 

 

Day Six

 

Take the Tram to the Tophane stop. Wander the streets of Cukurcuma which is a great neighborhood for antique buffs.  Walk the hilly backstreets in this area of Beyoglu.  Check out A La Turca at Faikpasa 4 in a four floor townhouse.  Walk to Cihangir and find a café for lunch. Walk to Taksim Hill and Taksim square and then stoll down the pedestrian Istiklal Caddesi. If you have time check out the Pera Museum or the Istanbul Museum of Modern Art. There is a Chagall exhibition at the Pera Museum through January 24, 2010.

 

Have a drink or dinner at 360 Istanbul. This is a glass penthouse restaurant on top of a 19^th century apartment building.  Great views of the city.  Istiklal Cadesi 32/309, phone 212 251 1042.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This entry was posted on Saturday, December 5th, 2009 at 2:51 pm and is filed under Travel Experiences, Travel Pointers. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.